Local Resident Continues Journal As She Hikes Across Spain
July 5, 2010
We are continuing to follow the journals of Century resident Terri Sanders as she hikes 500 miles across Spain this summer.
As Terri hikes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, she is filing dispatches from her journal and send pictures when possible for NorthEscambia.com as she hikes the Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — to the Atlantic Ocean.
To read the complete series from day one, click here.
Make sure you join NorthEscambia.com the new few days as we catch up on Terri’s journey and complete the series.
(Scroll down to read entries from several days.)
June 23, 2010
Start: Villafranca Del Bierz
Destination: O’Cebreito
We sent our packs forward today. We have a long steep climb over several mountains. Yes, I crawled out of bed at 6:00 am to hike with Lou and Mike. There were three different options to hike today. The three of us wandered around looking for the path we wanted. We each had a different guide book, and none of us could figure out which way we were supposed to go. Finally we found it .It should have been easy to find, it was the one that went up the steepest!
Today’s hike is one of the steepest of the whole pilgrimage, but the views from the top along the Valcarce Valley kept our spirits high when our feet wanted to quit. We had a stretch of walking along the noise highway that is being resurfaced and we had to be careful of the traffic. We hiked for a couple hours before we came to someplace that we could get breakfast at.
Well, it was kind of breakfast. A couple croissants, a slice of sweet bread and a glass of orange juice. The guys added a Kit Kat as an extra energy source. The strenuous hike took us up and into Galacia. The woods were filled with chestnut trees that are harvested each season. Several times we had to check and recheck our guide books because of the lack of adequate markings. I thing we somehow managed to hike an extra hour but am not sure just where it was we lost then found the trail. We passed the first of the concrete markers that will now be all along the trail that give the distances to Santiago. Today we are at 153 kilometers. We have just one week of hiking left.
It seems hard to believe I have come this far already. We are staying at the Xunta alberque tonight. There are 80 beds laundry facilities and has been recently renovated. We were lucky to get here after all the bunk beds had been filled. We are in a large room with 12 twin beds, a big open window that provides a fabulous breeze. The room is light and airy. We are given a disposable sheet and pillow case for the beds. Dinner is not provided here so we will walk up town to find something for dinner.
Miles 18.7
June 24 2010
Start: O’Cebreito
Destination: Triacastela
Today was mostly a slightly downhill path with just some minor road walking. As we enter into the province of Galicia it seems we have left behind the adobe villages with their small populations and poverty and began seeing newer buildings and more farm land.
One thing that has been with us for the last several days is the ever present scent of cow manure. The cows walk freely up and down the road/trail. No matter what we eat or where we stop the prevailing smell is that of manure. I am extremely grateful it is not raining. I have almost begun to enjoy the smell of tobacco in the small bars when we eat our meals. Galicia shares many historical and physical similarities with other Celtic particularly those west of Ireland. Too tired to provide much employment for the large family structures, emigration has cast its blight across the region.
Today there was an old woman in the trail just outside her house selling pancakes sprinkled with a bit of sugar selling them to the pilgrims. The best I can describe them is that they were paper thin and tasteless. We each took one and John gave her some change which she flatly refused and then took less as he held out his change. She motioned it was for the four of us. The poverty here is rampant but the people do not know they live in poverty. Every turn it seems someone is selling cherries or fruit or trinkets of some kind. There is never any pressure put on us to stop and make purchases though.
Later we come into a village where on the outskirts of town there is a chestnut tree reported to be 1500 years old. A couple who look at least half that old are sitting beneath the tree, telling the history of the tree to pilgrims as we walk by .There is a sign there (even an English version) that tells about the tree. It seems like this couple have taken it upon themselves to be the keeper of the tree and to make sure no one passes by without noticing the enormous size. I am certain that some of the pilgrims have breezed by the tree as they speed their way to Santiago. I am grateful we stopped to listen to this couple even if we could not understand a word they said. It was obvious that they took great pride in this tree.
Tricastela (town of three castles) was an important stop for pilgrims coming down the mountain in ancient times. Today’s pilgrims are treated with the same respect that those of long ago were treated with. In fact at a recent alburque, we were given preference of cyclists who were seeking rooms. There are quarries here that provided the limestone used in the building of Santiago Cathedral. Medieval pilgrims would carry as much limestone as they were able to the limekilns in Casteneda.
There is a pilgrim monument in the town square recognizing this ancient tradition while acknowledging the rebirth of the Camino. Another thing that continues to amaze me is the elaborate irrigation systems that are set up in these villages. Each house seems to have its own garden and a concrete trough runs by and there is a lever that is switched to divert water down the rows of the gardens. Sometimes the water runs under the road only to cross back over to the other side later. We cannot figure out where the source of the water is but it seems that somehow everyone has access to the water.
Most of the villages have a public water fountain where drinking water is gotten from. We usually fill our bottles and dunk our heads (or in some cases have our heads pushed under the icy water). The water is usually free flowing but some fountains have a spigot, and in one case there was a big wheel that you turned to prime the water. However we were seeing more and more fountains with the sign; not potable posted. We stay in a private alburque tonight. Three bunk beds in a room. Again I am lucky enough to get a bottom bunk. This time there is both hot and cold water in the shower and I take two showers. One with my clothes on to wash them and another one after I take my hiking clothes off. There are plastic laundry hangers everywhere and you can usually find the hostels just by watching for colorful laundry in the yard. We are fortunate enough to find a wi-fi zone and are given the key once we buy a drink.
Miles 12.9
June 25 2010
Start: Triacastela
Destination: Sarria
Our foursome went to a threesome today as Mike chose to hike the shorter route and possibly go on in an effort to get an extra day in Santiago. We have hiked the last several days with two ladies from Canada.
Our breaks and sometimes meals are always lively when they are with us. We have chosen to hike the Samos route which is 6.5 kilometers longer but it follows the Oribio River most of the day. We had a thunderstorm move through last night but woke up to blue skies this morning. This path also goes by one of the oldest monasteries in Spain, the Benedictine monastery of Samos. Several times today we had to consult and re consult our guide book as there are several local walks that could get us of the Camino.
We were taking a break today just before lunch at a small cafe when all of a sudden a big Jersey cow sticks her head in the door. The farmer leading the cows up the road called to her in a harsh voice and she ambled away. We reached the city of Sarria around 2:00. The population of this city is 12,000 people and has at least 7 hostels .It has become a major starting point for pilgrims with a limited amount of time but who are anxious to receive a compostela (certificate of completion) in Santiago. They can just barely get in the required 100 kilometers needed for the certificate by starting here. From here the trail will become crowded with new comers. There was cause for celebration today as I went into a cafe bathroom that had toilet paper, soap, toilet seat, towels and running water, all in the same location, and a locking door to boot!
Miles 15.9
June 26 2010
Start: Sarria
Destination: Portomarin
Sometime in the wee hours of the morning I woke up to what sounded like gunshots. A rapid succession of quick pops. I lay there for a few moments waiting for everyone to jump up and start running around, but nothing happened. I thought maybe I had dreamed the noise. As long as I was awake I might as well get up and go to the bathroom. I headed down the hallway towards the bathroom when another round of “pops” started.
The hallway goes past the bathrooms unto a roof top patio where you hang your clothes to dry and has tables and chairs to sit at. I saw some bright flashes of light from the sky and stepped out onto the patio. For the next 45 minutes I was treated to the most spectacular fireworks display I have even seen. I could not have had a better view. After a few more minutes two other ladies joined me and we stood there and watched the display .One thing is the same in any language and that is “oooohhhh and ahhhhh”.
There was a guy that evidently was asleep on one of the loungers and he raised up and watched the show. Here we are standing in our sleep clothes watching the fireworks on a roof top in Spain, having no idea what holiday is being celebrated.
We were on the trail by seven and I got to see my first (and probably last) sunrise in Spain. It looked just like all the other sunrises I have seen and I see no reason to repeat the scenario again getting up that early. Today’s hike was split between quiet country roads and natural pathways. The prevailing smell of cow manure is still everywhere. We had a good amount of shade most of the day. It seemed like the small hamlets blended seamlessly together as we walked. The book said there were not too many places to get food, but we found that in every little hamlet there was an entrepreneur spirit and someone was selling cold drinks or snacks.
We had already walked a ways out of town when we realized that to get to any alburque we would have to walk off the route and into town. We turned around and went back into town. The first place we stopped was full so we walked all the way to the end of town to another alburque. This one is what John lovingly refers to as a “cattle car”. There are 35 bunk beds in one room. Six showers for the women and six for the men and four toilets for each. But the rate is right, 5 Euros.
We actually found a cafe that was advertising hamburgers and decided to try that for supper. The bun was fresh, the patty tasted vaguely like beef and there was the usual slice of tasteless tomato and a leaf of lettuce. Truly an American experience! Thunderclouds have gathered again and we hope the rain passes again through the night!
Miles 14.2
Church News: Bratt Assembly Of God Honors Veterans On The 4th
July 5, 2010
Bratt Assembly of God honored veterans and active duty military personnel associated with the church and church families Sunday, July 4th during their morning worship service.
(Reader submitted church news from Bratt Assembly of God)
Photos of the veterans and active duty military personnel were displayed on the Communion table and each veteran was called forward in recognition of their service.
Family members of deceased veterans and active duty personnel stood in honor of their family member.
The congregation sang “The Battle Hymn of the Republic”, “America” and asked God to once again bless America as Shirley Riggs lead the congregation in singing “God Bless America”. Melinda Hollingshead sang “God Bless the USA”. Jim Riggs was the master of ceremonies for the Honorarium, calling the veterans and families to stand and leading the congregation in the Pledge of Allegiance to the flag.
Bratt Assembly of God has the distinction of having a large number of veterans and active duty military personnel from different age groups and services.
Honored Sunday at Bratt Assembly of God were:
- Leslie Barnes
- Grover Barnes
- Sherman Barnes*
- Larry Godwin*
- Tommy Solomon
- Edward Beasley*
- Dudley Coleman
- Franklin Daw
- I. V. Elliot*
- Seaborn Chavers
- Jack Colbert
- Jim Flowers*
- Talton Godwin
- Gordon Hollingshead*
- James M. Kelly**
- Charles Lowery
- Alton Robbins
- Clarence Phillips*
- James Riggs
- Roger Riggs
- Blake Barnes***
- Nathaniel Cartwright***
- Johnny Lacey***
(*deceased, **killed in action, ***currently serving)
Do you have news from your church you would like to share? Email a href=”mailto:news@northescambia.com”>news@northescambia.com
The Way Of St. James: Century Resident Continues Hike
July 4, 2010
We are continuing to follow the journals of Century resident Terri Sanders as she hikes 500 miles across Spain this summer.
As Terri hikes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, she is filing dispatches from her journal and send pictures when possible for NorthEscambia.com as she hikes the Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — to the Atlantic Ocean.
To read the complete series from day one, click here.
Make sure you join NorthEscambia.com the new few days as we catch up on Terri’s journey and complete the series.
(Scroll down to read entries from three different days.)
June 19 2010
Start;Villar de Mazarife
Destination:Astorga
Breakfast was the usual, bread, jam, tea and coffee. John was feeling some better but decided not to hike today but rather catch a bus to our destination for the night. We went ahead and sent our packs ahead since we were doing 18 miles. There were a couple of nice climbs, nothing to stress about and not very much interesting to see until late in the day. We crossed one of the oldest and longest bridges in Spain, the Puente de Orbigo that dates from the 13th century.
Its arches carry you over across the Rio Orbigo via the path the passage of honor Paso honroso.It is here that a famous jousting tournament took place in the holy Year of 1434. A noble knight from Leon with the handsome name of Don Suero de Quinones was scorned by a beautiful lady. He threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he undertook to defend the bridge (and presumably his honor) against all counts. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. don Suero successfully defended the bridge for a month until the required 300 lances were broken. Together with his trusted comrades he then preceded to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love and for his honor now restored. There is nothing mentioned about the woman!
We checked into the hostel and soon found out we were in the wrong place, so back on my boots went and uphill to the correct hostel we went. We checked in to St. Javier hostel (after we rang some ladies doorbell and tried to stay with her).There are 110 beds in four rooms plus an attic. This is a lovely conversion of one of the oldest historic buildings in Astorga. I sign up for a 45 minute massage for 10 Euros. I figure I will drink water for the next week, but the massage was so worth it. I just wished I could have rolled into bed from the table. We had coupons for dinner at a 5 star restaurant for a discounted price. The food was great and very well presented. We sat around and talked until we almost missed the curfew!
Miles 18.7
June 20, 2010
Start: Astorga
Destination: Rabanal del Camino
(no journal entry for this date)
Miles 13.3
June 21, 2010
Start: Rabanal del Camino
Destination: Molinaseca
Lou and John were going to get an early start so they left at 6 this morning. I couldn’t figure the logic behind getting up early to get to the albueque early enough to take a siesta. But you have to hike your own hike. Mike and I opt for a later start. We are both night people . I fixed a nice fruit salad for my breakfast and had a couple slices of toast before heading out. We have a long day today.
Today the hike takes us through the pass of Irago to the highest point of our whole trail. The trail takes us through the mountains and along the ridge. This section is considered by many to be the prettiest part of the trail. I have to agree. It was my favorite hiking day thus far. I guess it is because the trail was so much like the Appalachian Trail except there was no shade at all today. You could walk between the rolling hills and for as far as you can see more rolling hills. The climbs were so gradual that you didn’t even know you were climbing. I took my time today and just slogged along. The smell of the woods burning under the noon sun was better than any perfume I have ever smelled. You could look around and believe that you were in a total wilderness. Just about the time you thought you were in a total wilderness, you would come around a corner and there would be a small village nestled among the hills.
Today’s selection of bars or cafes was pretty slim though and I was glad I had some snacks in my backpack. It is amazing to me how these little villages even continue to exist. There are no visible schools or industries. No stores or factories. Each village has a couple cars and plenty of rundown buildings and a couple of dogs and cats running loose through the streets. I came to a road crossing and there in a big shade tree was a swing. Just out in the middle of nowhere .There was also a pair of boots hanging on the road sign. Someone is going to be pretty upset when they realize they have lost their boots. Or maybe they just wanted to lighten their load! I got ahead of Mike at one point and took a long break.
I was not sure how he was for snacks since neither of us knew the first part of the trail was so long before coming to a village. I left him a note in the trail with half a banana and a tea cake just in case he was running low on energy. He got to the hostel just ahead of me and I found out he had taken the road instead of the trail. So somewhere out there some critter will eat well tonight! The hostel where we are tonight is a privately run one. That means it is cleaner, we are not packed in like sardines and it is very nice. There are two rooms with 4 bunks beds and one other room. Mike and I got the last two twin beds in the upper room. Yeah!!! No knocking my head on the bunk above me when I crawl in and out. There are only six beds in here anyway, so there will not be a stampede of hikers leaving at dawn in the morning. We all have decided to eat here tonight. For 8 Euros we get three courses and we don’t even have to walk but down the stairs.
Miles 16.4
June 22, 2010
Start: Molinaseca
Destination: Villafranca Del Bierzo
I wish I could say today’s hike was great. But it would not be true. Today’s hike was long, hot and for the most part boring. The trail was primarily walking along on hot asphalt through more small villages and fewer cafes. The only real pleasurable thing was going to the post office and shipping 6 pounds of stuff home that I have been carrying and have not used. Of course seeing all the wonderful vegetable gardens along the road only made me want to plant one when I get home.
Then there were the storks’ nests, this time a double condo and I could see the babies’ heads just peeking over the sides of the nest. Several times we passed under cherry trees, their fruit just beginning to ripen. We helped ourselves to a couple from trees along the roadway I hiked with Mike again today .I do not know how he hikes like he does. All he had was toast and jam for breakfast, then an apple for lunch, yet I had to struggle to keep up with him.
We are in another private hostel tonight. I miss hiking with Lou as he always points out the interesting things in each town that he gets from reading his guide book. This one is in an old building. Two floors stacked with bunk beds. The hot water for the showers is heated by solar panels. Trouble is there was no cold water to mix with the hot water. I managed to get a shower but ended up washing my hair in the sink in frigid cold water. We ate dinner here tonight. It was served family style and I sat across from the couple I met two weeks ago from Houston Texas.
I found out he had taken the road instead of the trail. So somewhere out there some critter will eat well tonight! The hostel where we are tonight is a privately run one. That means it is cleaner, we are not packed in like sardines and it is very nice. There are two rooms with 4 bunks beds and one other room. Mike and I got the last two twin beds in the upper room. Yeah!!! No knocking my head on the bunk above me when I crawl in and out. There are only six beds in here anyway, so there will not be a stampede of hikers leaving at dawn in the morning. We all have decided to eat here tonight. For 8 Euros we get three courses and we don’t even have to walk but down the stairs.
Miles 16.4
Hometown Recipe: Lemon Zest All-American Apple Pie
July 4, 2010
We get a lot of requests for recipes at NorthEscambia.com, so over the coming weeks, we are giving a chance to sample a few different recipe columns.
Today, we have the “Just a Pinch” column from Janet Tharpe. Janet features the best in hometown recipes from across the country. Today, its an All-American Apple Pie with Lemon Zest. You can click the image below to load a printable pdf with a recipe card.
If you like the idea of weekly recipes here on NorthEscambia.com please let us know. Email news@northescambia.com or enter a comment at the bottom of the page. Several people have expressed an interest in submitted local recipes for us to publish; if you would like to submit your own recipes, let us know that too
Birth Announcement: Jackson Keith Rolin
July 4, 2010
Randy Jonathan and Samantha (Martin) Rolin are pleased to announce the birth of their son, Jackson Keith Rolin. Jack was born May 10, 2010, at South Baldwin Regional Medical Center in Foley, Ala. He weighed 6 lbs. 8.75 oz., and was 20 inches long.
Maternal grandparents are Keith and Rochel Martin. Paternal grandparents are Kathy Rolin and the late Randy Rolin.
Great grandparents are the late Frank Stewart Jr., Billy and Joyce Etheridge, Ken and Janette Beck, the late Henderson Robinson, Linda Harrelson, the late Pete Harrelson, Wilbert “Bud” and Joyce Rolin, and the late Voncile Rolin.
Jack was welcomed home by his big sister Lily Grace, 2.
Journal: Century Resident Continues Hike Across Spain
July 3, 2010
We are continuing to follow the journals of Century resident Terri Sanders as she hikes 500 miles across Spain this summer.
As Terri hikes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, she is filing dispatches from her journal and send pictures when possible for NorthEscambia.com as she hikes the Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — to the Atlantic Ocean.
To read the complete series from day one, click here.
Make sure you join NorthEscambia.com the new few days as we catch up on Terri’s journey and complete the series.
(Scroll down to read entries from three different days.)
June 15 2010
Start: Terradillos de Templarios
Destination: El Burgoe del Ranero
We had the usual nonexistent breakfast. Lou left just ahead of me. I was having trouble with my stomach. I put my pack on and started out the door when the proprietor stopped me and said, “You need to pay for the breakfast”. We had thought it was included in the room. I paid for our breakfasts and caught up with Lou.
It was brisk and cold this morning and I finally had to stop and put my jacket on. Even though the sky was blue with a few clouds, the wind was biting cold.
When we stopped for our noon break, up walked John, who we had met back in St.Jean Pied A Port. Our trail today was on earthen tracks through remote bush country. The cold wind kept us from stopping for any snacks. John and Lou hiked most of the afternoon together while I tried to zone out and just keep moving.
Today was another long day and I was tired by the time we got to the alburque. I am not sure what is going on with my body but for the past three days, as soon as we stop for the day, I have to immediately change clothes, get under a stack of blankets and Lou’s sleeping bag to get warm. It usually takes 2-3 hours for me to finally get warm enough to stop shivering. The last two nights there has been no heat in the hostels so I have bypassed taking a shower. The water is plenty hot but getting dried off, dressed and back to the bed before getting cold again is no easy feat and I just can’t bring myself to do it.
On the Appalachian Trail the longest I went without a shower was 11 days. If it does not warm up pretty soon I may break that record.
There was no one at the hostel when we got here, but a nearby restaurant owner said we just check ourselves in. We laid claim to a bunk. There are only 8 bunks beds here, a small kitchen, a couple showers and toilets. It is by donation to sleep here. There was a wood burning stove in the main room. It did not take me long to find matches, kindling and fire wood to get a fire going. Everyone else was hesitant to start a fire. I said, “What is the worse anyone could do if they ever showed up; put the fire out?”.
Miles 16.7
June 16 2010
Start: El Burgo Ranero
Destination: Mansilla de las Mulas
It was gray and overcast this morning when I stepped outside. Just enough wet to warrant climbing inside my pack cover, put my hat on and walk face down into the rain. By late morning the rain let up and it just stayed overcast. Today’s hike is 15 miles of no asphalt roads, no towns. No villages, no farmland, no houses, no water fountains and no shade trees. On the positive note, it is the most perfect stretch of Roman Road left in Spain. Only the weeds and wild flowers have changed in the last two millennium since this path was laid. We follow the footsteps of Emperor Augustus himself but he would have traveled with an entourage of servants, not available to us humble pilgrims.
We stopped twice for a quick break, after a few minutes we would get cold and start moving again to get warm. All in all it was a rather dull boring day. Things got better when we got to the hostel though. I paid close attention to how I was feeling this afternoon. I stayed in back of the guys and did not push myself. When we got to the hostile I changed clothes and was actually able to eat a snack and finally get a shower. Every hostile has a hiker box just like the one that would become my treasure. There was a brand new poncho, which I left, and a brand new ultra lite sleeping bag which I took.
Later I went digging in the bottom of the basket again and found a roll up bag that had 4 zipper compartments in it. The first compartment held scissors, needle thread, toe nail clippers and fingernail file. The next compartment had toothpaste, comb and suncreen. I took the comb and combed my hair for the first time since I left America. The last compartment had 250 Euros in it. I just stared at the money not knowing what to do at first. The bag was on the very bottom of the basket so I knew it had been there awhile. I put the money in my pocket and thanked God for this unexpected gift. It would almost make up for losing my iPod.
Tomorrow John and I will take the bus into Leon. Neither of us wants to walk through a big noisy city. The night ended on a sour note as my new found sleeping bag was gone and then someone said some hurtful remarks to me and I ended up crying myself to sleep. Too bad the remarks weren’t in Spanish!
Miles:15.2
June 17, 2010
Start: Mansilla de las Mulas
Destination: Leon
There were too many people around the stove this morning for me to cook the potatoes and eggs we had, I wished Lou well and crawled back in bed. I tried hard to go back to sleep but it just wouldn’t work. The guy in the bunk above me had come down and was digging around in the hiker basket muttering under his breath. I asked him what he was looking for and in a combination of Hungarian and English; he told me some of his stuff had been stolen, including 250 Euros. Suddenly a light came on in my head and I realized what had happened.
I got up dug around in my pack and found the comb I had taken. He looked at me questioningly and asked if it was on the floor. I shook my head no….then I took out 250 Euros and handed it to him. He still had a dumb founded look on his face. “You steal from me?” he asked.
I then tried to explain to him how it was that hikers had taken things from his basket. It looked just like a laundry basket with belts along the side. It took me awhile to get the point across to him how we thought it was hiker discards and what that meant. We did not mean to steal from him.
When he finally understood he burst into tears and cried on my shoulders hugging me very tightly. I made him a sign to put on his basket at night that said “This is my back pack please do not touch…privado”. He hugged me some more cried some more and told me all he had was 250 Euros for this trip. He would play his mandolin in the hostels at night and teach Hungarian songs for donations. He picked up his comb and asked if he could give it to me as a gift. I said yes sure. He didn’t have much hair and I don’t know why he was even carrying a comb. I probably could have help lighten his pack considerer ably but figured I had done enough damage. He still was missing some things, but he had his money and that was the big thing.
I packed my stuff and went in search of John. We got to the bus stop just minutes before the bus came. It was a nice ride, looking at all the scenery from the bus window. Neither of us wanted to walk through the long industrial section of Leon, much less all the way through the busy streets. We got to the bus stop, asked directions to the monastery and set off.
We came across an outdoor store where John got a jacket and sleeping bag and I got a sleeping bag. Now watch the weather will turn hot as Hades and here I am with a sleeping bag. We headed out and asked directions again. Thirty minutes later, we asked directions again, and then we asked directions again and again and yet again. This is the first man I have ever met that will ask directions, much less over and over again!
We finally found the monastery and checked in. Turns out Lou had beaten us there. This is the first time the bunk houses have been segregated. We are staying at the Santa Maria de Carbajalas run by the Benedictine nuns. There are 180 beds (all bunk beds) with basic facilities. It is known as a haven of peace and serenity in this busy city. There is a sung vespers each evening which we attended and even though we could not understand a word, it was very moving. Later there was a blessing of the Pilgrims serving as a reminder of the true of nature our journeying. The lights went out promptly at 10:30. All was peaceful.
Zero miles
June 18, 2010
Start: Leon
Destination: Villar de Mazarife
I was packed and downstairs waiting on breakfast by 7:00. Lou was amazed. True to the nature of Spain, breakfast was bread, jam, coffee, tea or hot chocolate. We headed out of town and walked along more farmlands glad to be out of the hustle and bustle of the big city. There was one small town where we stopped for lunch and a break before we arrived at Villar de Mazarife.
We had discussed which hostel we were going to stay in tonight. We have a choice of three. The first one San Antonio de Padua sounded just okay. The book said what it lacked in character, it made up in modern facilities. It has 40 beds in one room but lacks character. The second place El Refugio de Jesus has 30 beds in 9 small rooms (think sardines), what it lacks in modern facilities it makes up for in character. The third place, Tio Pepe is a private hostel with 20 beds all facilities, meals and a bar.
I voted to go with character as did the other hikers. We are now four as Mike (John’s lost hiking partner) has been found. We got to the first hostel which had plastic lounge chairs in the yard under a canopy of shade. It sucked Lou right in .so much for character. It was nice to lie outside and nap in the shade for awhile.
When they called us for dinner you would have thought we were in a five star hotel. The first course, salad was beautifully put together and very colorful. Our second course was a rice dish with fresh green beans, onion, garbanzo beans cooked in a tomato base. Dessert was a caramel cheesecake with caramel sauce. It was all delicious.
The only down side to the meal was half way through it John started feeling bad. He had come in and laid down when we first got here which is unlike him .He said he was cold and couldn’t get warm and no matter how much he drank he was still thirsty. He gets up from the table, stumbles over to an oversize chair and collapses in it. Our manager/chef was also a retired doctor.
He told the waitress to get his blood pressure cuff and hurry. At least that is what we interpreted it to be. He took John’s blood pressure and with a very concerned look told her to call an ambulance .About that time John stiffened out in the chair, broke out in a profuse sweat and was out like a light. My first thought was that he was dead. He wasn’t breathing and was still, then all of a sudden his head slumped over and he was gone. He probably wasn’t out more than a few seconds (it seemed like minutes to me). Five EMTs showed up, took his vitals, blood work and an EKG. Everything checked out fine so they all left. The manager said John had experienced some sort of an experience of the Camino. That something inside him had escaped. We got John up to the bunk room got him in bed and went to sleep hoping tomorrow would be better.
Miles 14.4
Watch Flomaton Traffic Cams 24/7
July 1, 2010
Area residents interested in the traffic in Flomaton can now check out two new cameras.
The Alabama Department of Transportation has installed two live Internet traffic cameras — one at the Highway 31/Highway 29 intersection and the other at the Highway 113/Highway 31 intersection.
ALDOT can control the pan and tilt on the cameras, pointing them in different directions, so the camera view may be different at different times of the day.
For more ALDOT cameras, click here.
(Editor’s note: It may be necessary to press the “play” button below to see each camera. If you do not see videos below, it is because your work or home firewall is blocking external videos.)
LIVE VIEW: Highway 31/Highway 29, Flomaton
LIVE VIEW: Highway 113/Highway 31, Flomaton
Journal: Century Resident Continues Spain Hike
July 1, 2010
We are continuing to follow the journals of Century resident Terri Sanders as she hikes 500 miles across Spain this summer.
As Terri hikes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, she is filing dispatches from her journal and send pictures when possible for NorthEscambia.com as she hikes the Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — to the Atlantic Ocean.
To read the complete series from day one, click here.
Make sure you join NorthEscambia.com the new few days as we catch up on Terri’s journey and complete the series.
(Scroll down to read entries from three different days.)
June 12 2010
Start: Castrojeriz
Destination: Fromista
Some idiot pilgrim thought it would be cool to get up 4:30 am and leave.
I had had a rough night anyway. First, Lou’s cell phone went off after he went to sleep. Of course he didn’t hear it and every few minutes it would buzz to remind him he had a message. The head of my mattress was right there at his back pack. After an hour or so I nudged him and told him his phone kept buzzing. He partially sat up, raised his hand toward his pack and fell back down on his pillow, dead to the world.
If there had of been more light in the room, I would have dug his phone out and either turned it off or threw it at him! But there were no lights; in fact there were no working lights at all in the room. It is a sure fire way to get people to go to sleep early. Of course it does not get dark here until 10:30 or so. I moved to the other end of the mattress and tried to go to sleep.
Just about the time I dozed off the lady on the mattress next to me, stretched her legs and kicked me in the head. Remember, all the mattresses on the floor are pushed up next to each other. That scared the kajebbies out of me. It was close to 3:00 am before I finally dozed off. I might have gotten 90 minutes of sleep.
I had bought a silk liner and a pack towel last night so I am looking forward to a hot shower tonight! If the hostel tonight does not have any blankets I will at least have my liner. Again, no place to eat breakfast. I am beginning to wonder what people do in these small towns for breakfast! We grabbed a power bar and headed out.
It was cold and overcast but thankfully no wind was blowing, nor was it raining. Right off the bat, we had a strenuous climb of a hundred meters over a 2 meter walk. The book says it is a glorious 21.9 kilometers on an earthen track. Someone forgot to mention the fact that it had been raining it was a slog and fight your way 21.9 kilometers while trying to stay upright! It was also a mud magnet so that within minutes you were carrying an extra couple pounds of dirt on the bottom of your shoes. It was slow going and not very glorious!
The nice thing was when we got to the top of the climb, there was a van there with two tables set up, fresh fruit and hot coffee. I am not a coffee drinker but two cups of coffee was nice on a cold day. They were owners of a hostel in Fromista where we are staying tonight. They handed out color brochures describing all the wonderful luxuries that awaited us at the end of our hike today.
About a mile later, it dawned on me that I could have asked them to transport our packs to the hotel tonight since we had already decided we were going to stay there. Sometimes I am not real bright! The thought of clean clothes, a hot shower and food was our motivation to keep up a steady pace. A few hours later we step to the side of the road to let a vehicle pass us.
Just as he passes I noticed that he was the company that transports packs for pilgrims. I tried my best to flag him down as he passed but didn’t have any luck. Lou said that was twice today I missed a golden opportunity. We rounded the corner just on the outskirts of town and there sat the van, unloading packs at a hostel .I started yelling Amigo just as he closed the back door of the van. When I reached him I asked him if he could take our packs to Fromista. Si,for 5 Euros.
We quickly tagged our packs and loaded them into the van. I grabbed a kiwi, an orange and a white chocolate candy bar and stuffed in my pockets. Off he went with both of our packs. It didn’t take long for it to dawn on us that we had very little with us. But we were rewarded with no packs and a long stretch of flat road. I almost took off running. You notice I said almost.
A few hours later we found some fairly dry grass alongside a canal and we threw down our coats and ate our snacks. Today’s trail was laid two thousand years ago. It is mind boggling to think that pilgrims walked this trail that long ago. We talked of what kind of provisions they might have had. I assured Lou that they probably did not hike in the rain!
It was 2:00 when we hiked into our hometown for the night. The hostel was on the farthest outskirts of town. After a couple of tense moments when we tried to communicate that we wanted to wash our clothes, we finally understood that you give your dirty clothes to the hostess and she washes and dries them for you. We splurged and got a private room with two twin bedsit will be a nice treat to be able to turn the lights off when we want to and not be disturbed by early risers.
I put all of my clothes together and fixed a big plastic garbage bag to wear after my shower and Lou took off to drop our clothes off. The room was cold but clean and just enough hot water for a nice long shower. Three hours later, still no clothes and we were starving. Lou did not want me to go to dinner in my plastic bag so he went looking for our clothes. He came back and said when he finally found someone who knew about our clothes they were not yet dry.
Granted the sky was overcast and not a good day to hang clothes out to dry, but three hours were more than sufficient to get them at least partially dry. Lou gave me an extra T shirt he had that was a bit longer than my sack. I wrapped a towel around my waist and told him if I was not back in an hour look for me at the jail. Again hand language came in handy. I finally found our clothes strewn over a washer and dryer. I grabbed my pair of shorts, and a shirt and headed back to the room. Lou was surprised I had found our clothes.
I told him “Hell hath no fury like a naked hungry woman.”
Miles 15.8
June 13 2010
Start: Fromista
Destination: Carrion De Los Condes
They offered breakfast here this morning. Toast, coffee, hot chocolate, and tea cakes. We ate and rejoiced as we stepped into overcast but dry skies.
The last few days have been short as far as mileage goes. We cannot go farther because the albueques are too far apart so we either do 25 miles a day or 12. Today was probably the most boring day of the trail. The trail follows the main roadway from our starting point to our destination. There was a place we could have taken an alternative trail, but the trail fizzled out at the start and wasn’t marked. We were afraid of falling into the canal or at least having to cross it, so we choose the main trail.
With it being Sunday we saw maybe 30 cars on the road . For the first time cars honk at us as we walk. It is a bit of encouragement to us. We stopped at a small town for lunch. It was early in the day so the usual smoke filled cafe was empty. Soup and a ice cream revives our spirits and we head on. The first two hostels we stopped at were full. It seems the advertising brochures that are being handed out along the trail are nothing more than a bait and switch tactic. We ended up paying 15 Euros for a room we shared with two other people.
The town side was that one of the pilgrims in here with us, turned the TV on (which is all in Spanish).He said the World Cup was on and he wanted to watch it. The trouble was he never shut up or sat down to watch it and was constantly switching channels. Gitter (a woman from Holland) came in later and I thought we were going to have a fight over the television being on constantly. It was aggravating to Lou and me but we kept our mouths shut although I did turn it down when the hiker took a shower. We have had no television in the rooms and have grown quite accustomed to the peace and quiet.
Miles 12.2
June 14 2010
Start: Carrion de los Condes
Destination: Terradillos de Templarios
I am sick…I have lost my iPod.
I use it at night to listen to music as I go to sleep .I know exactly where I left it. Every morning I wake up and it is right by my pillow. I didn’t notice that I had not packed it yesterday morning. It makes me sick. Now I will have to wait until Christmas to get one from my kids since Mother’s Day has already come and gone.
Lou and I have finally figured out something about this trail and it’s hostels. The hostel owners go up and down the road advertising rooms with 15 or 20 bunk beds for 7 Euros. But when we get there those rooms all always filled and we are stuck taking a more expensive 4 person room or a private room. The complimentary breakfasts are a joke as is most of the breakfasts offered by any cafe which happens to be open early in the mornings.
We have decided that every afternoon we will find a market, stock up on fresh fruits and stop along the trail to eat breakfast .It will be cheaper, healthier and offer more carbohydrates for the days walk than the little overpriced tea cakes we get. Enough complaining!
As we left town we stopped at a little petro station looking for something to carry for lunch. There wasn’t anything suitable for lunch but there were M&M’s which is a first to find over here. So far all I have found were Kit Kats. I spent 8 Euros on M&M’s for our snack for today.
Today we passed through a flat and somewhat featureless terrain. There is very little shade and very few public water fountains. There were virtually no cafes so we tried to pack some extra food in our packs. After we had hiked about 12 miles we came upon a little trailer where a man was grilling tiny sausages for sandwiches. He also had fresh fruit, cold drinks and beer. We each had a banana and I drank a Fanta Orange that I had got back at the petro station. One thing I have learned is just because a can has a orange label on it, that does not mean it has orange drink inside.
We took an alternate route today that took us off of the main road and along an old farming road. It was quiet and peaceful and the only sounds we heard were of the birds and our shoes hitting the trail .The sides of the trail were in full bloom of wildflowers. At one point Lou became uneasy that maybe we had missed a turn off of the trail. He said he was 50/50 sure we were on the right path. I told him I was 80/20 sure we were on the right trail. He asked me why I was so positive and I pointed ahead to a faint yellow arrow. He said he was only checking to see how honest I was.
There was just the right combination of fluffy clouds and blue skies to keep the sun off of us and a nice breeze to boot. We went through the first little town which the book says has nothing to offer. What we found was a clean cafe and great meals at a decent price. The food that is available to us has very few carbohydrates that our bodies need for energy the next day.
We got lucky today, we got fries which were not only fresh but also fried in fresh oil. A strange tradition here is that most lunch meals include a fried egg. It doesn’t matter what else the meal has, but there will be a fried egg on the plate. I guess this is how they make up for not eating breakfast!
We finally got to the hostel we were going to stay in only to discover the dorm rooms were full. We had a choice of a private room or a room with two bunk beds and a private bath, which is what we choose. I got a bottom bunk which is great for me since trying to climb a metal ladder with round rungs is a killer to already sore feet. We are hoping no one else joins us.
I walked up front to get my water bottle fill and inadvertently took a wrong turn which sent me down the other side of the hostel. There were several rooms with glass doors and all the rooms had numerous empty bunk beds .In fact there were no hikers in any of the beds. That put a really sour taste in my mouth. I am a business woman and I don’t have a problem with people making a profit. That is what business do. I do have a problem when people deceive the customers in order to make more money.
The closer we get to the end the more we find practices like this taking place. Today we reached the half way mark both in miles and in days. We are pretty much on track to finish by June 30. gone are the leisure days of 12 or so miles. This week we have mostly 15 – 20 mile days and even though the terrain is flat, it makes for a long day.
I borrowed Lou’s cell phone to call my oldest daughter and sing Happy Birthday to her. It was good to hear her voice. She told me when she first saw who it was calling, she wasn’t going to answer it because she figured it was Lou calling her to report that he had lost me! That was the exact thing I had just told him, that I bet she wouldn’t answer the phone.
Miles 16.6
Yuhasz Graduates From Basic Training
July 1, 2010
Air Force Airman John M. Yuhasz Jr. graduated from basic military training at Lackland Air Force Base, San Antonio, Texas.
The airman completed an intensive, eight-week program that included training in military discipline and studies, Air Force core values, physical fitness, and basic warfare principles and skills.
Airmen who complete basic training earn four credits toward an associate in applied science degree through the Community College of the Air Force.
Yuhasz, a 2007 gradate of Northview High School, is the son of Tina Garrison of Highway 97, Molino, and John Yuhasz Sr. of Packwood Drive, Cantonment.
Make A Little Magic: Camp Fire USA
June 30, 2010
The children at the Camp Fire USA Century Youth Learning Center were recently visited by Beau Broomall with his Magic Moments show.
“The children had an exciting time and even participated in the magic show,” said Camp Fire Century Director Pam Townson.
Broomall, who started learning magic at the age of 10, has been a professional magician for the past 20 years, performing across the country.
Submitted photos for NorthEscambia.com, click to enlarge.
