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Don’t Wash Clothes In Toilet: Century Resident Continues Spain Hike

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We are continuing to follow the journals of Century resident Terri Sanders as she hikes 500 miles across Spain this summer.

As Terri hikes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, she will file dispatches from her journal and send pictures when possible for NorthEscambia.com as she hikes the Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — to the Atlantic Ocean.

Today, we begin catching up, with details of Terri’s journeys June 3-6. Be sure to scroll all the way down the page to read all four entries.

For her previous entries, click here, click here, click here, and click here.

June 3, 2010

Start; Larrasoana

Destination: Cizur Menor

It was another hot day today but the rich scenery somewhat makes up for the heat. Lou and I got separated again. It seems we lose each other at least once a day. Today the trail passed into a court yard of a small cathedral. I just knew he was inside but I was wrong. Even in its smallness the statutes inside were magnificent. There were no more than 8 rows of wooden pews. The air was cool and the room was totally quiet. I sat for a few minutes just embracing the scenes and the smells. When I got up with Lou he said he had seen plenty of cathedrals.

We got to the hotel just behind two guys we had hiked off and on all day with. There were only two beds left and they told us to take them. We had jokingly said to them earlier in the day to save us a bed. We tried to tell them we could go to the next hostel but they said a deal was a deal. Again a hot shower felt wonderful.

There was a note in the bathroom to please do not wash clothes in the toilet which I thought was a bit strange. Who would wash their clothes in the toilet anyway? But there are some strange ways over here.

I stepped into the shower fully clothed and vowed never to get out. I washed and rewashed and washed again. Feeling guilty in case there was someone else waiting to take a shower I got out, put my sleep shirt and long pants on and went to check out the refrigerator. We were free to eat anything in there that did not have someone’s name on it. There were several partial bags of spaghetti, a couple ripe tomatoes and some tomato sauce. I had us a plate of spaghetti ready in a few minutes.

I laid on the bunk resting until later when there was going to be a medieval concert at the chapel across the parking lot. A medieval musical concert, that was intriguing to say the least. At the appointed time we walked across to the chapel and got a seat. They were 45 minutes late starting.

There were three women at the head table and each gave a long dissertation which we could not understand the first word. It would have been nice to have put it on paper for the English speaking guest in the crowd. I think one lady spoke Spanish, one spoke French and the other one I guessed to be Portuguese.

There was a Powerpoint with pictures of different musical instruments from medieval times. I sure would have enjoyed it better had I been able to understand what was being said. There were three young women who were the singers. It did not matter that they sang in Spanish. The vocals were so great and blended so well it was a pleasure just to listen to them sing. It made for a long night and short sleep though.

Miles 13

June 4 2010

Start: Cizur Menor

Destination: Puente la Reina

I could not believe that all of the hiker leaving this morning did not wake me up. Ryan, a young American guy we met a few days ago came over and shook my foot telling me it was time to get up. I couldn’t figure out why Lou didn’t come wake me up unless he was afraid I would throw something at him. As we were leaving Lou went through the hiker box and found me a hat almost exactly like the one I left at home. The trail today was hot and dusty with almost no shade. We climb a few small hills then hike along the ridge past a long line of wind turbines. As we ascend there are splendid views of Pamplona behind us. As we crest the summit the view to the west over the Arga Valley gives us glimpses of the villages below

Miles 11.8

June 5 2010

Start: Puente la Reino

Destination: Irache

Today was another peaceful walk along gently rolling hills through more vineyards and farmland. There was a steep climb first thing in the morning, but we took it slow and easy .The heat today was ferocious and it was difficult to stay hydrated. The saving grace was that in a few of these small villages there were running fountains in the park. I would wash my face then take my hat fill it with water and put it on my head. The initial shock would take my breath away, but it cooled me off for a couple hours.

The small villages with row upon row of tall shuttered houses continue to grab my attention. The roads are barely wide enough for two cars to pass and we have to be watchful as we walk. We have walked over medieval bridges today hundreds of years old and I marvel at the workmanship. We came to a small bar where we stamped our own passports and continued down the trail.

We are now seeing some familiar faces as we leapfrog each other during the days. We are also remembering names of some of them. The trail today has taken us through valleys up to cemeteries and crisscrossed the main highway here.

The heat is still relentless and even though I have been diligent to put sun screen on my lips they are still badly blistered.

The hotel was full by the time we got there but they did have an apartment with two beds for 75 Euros. It was a suite to us with a bedroom a sitting room, a full kitchen and a wonderful tub to soak in.

We went down to the supper buffet and made pigs of ourselves. We asked Fred to join us. He speaks fairly decent English and is from South Africa, so he and Lou have plenty to talk about. I just listen and eat. Back in our room I confess to Lou that I had never seen a bidet much less knew what they were for. He got a kick out of telling me they were basically useless. I went in and at least turned the faucet on to see how it worked. I agree with Lou, it seemed to be a totally useless bathroom item! There was wi-fi here so we had a chance to check our email and see what was going on in the rest of the world.

Miles 16.2 miles

June 6, 2010

Start; Irache

Destination; Torres del Rio

Lou didn’t wake up until after 7 and he woke me up just before 8:00 .The skies outside were overcast and as we went down to breakfast a thunderstorm moved in.

We took our time eating the breakfast bar .It was the closest to an American breakfast we have had so far. By the time we left the storm was over but the skies were still overcast. The temperature had dropped considerably which made for a great hiking day. I think Lou had Wheaties for breakfast because soon he was out of sight. The path today was natural and wound in and out of vineyards and well tended gardens.

At lunch I passed Frenchie who was taking a long lunch break. He told me Lou was about an hour ahead. There was no reason to try and catch up with him. I couldn’t hike that fast anyway. I took my pack off and joined Frenchie (Emile) for lunch. It felt great to take my shoes off and lean back and rest.

I met two ladies along the trail today with plastic bags and hiking sticks. They showed me the inside of the bags which were filled with huge snails. I have seen lots of snails the past few days, really big snails. Evidently the rain brings them out ripe for the picking. They would pull the brush back with the hiking sticks looking underneath the brush for these delicacies!

I am not sure I could bring myself to eat a snail, but we will see.

Because we are a few days short of being able to finish the Camino we have decided to up our daily mileage in an effort to finish on time. I caught up with Lou mid afternoon and we stopped for snacks and water.

We pressed on to the town of Torres Del Rio where we got bunks in the albueque. I could get used to a nice hot shower and a bed every night. In Spain they are very conservative of electricity and water. There are sensors in the bathroom that turns the light on when you come in, but then the light goes off before you are finished. Sometime the switch is within reach while sitting on the toilet, sometime it is not. Tonight the water in the shower is on a timer and goes off after a few minutes. The light switch is on the outside of the shower room and after a few minutes, out goes the lights. You have no choice but to finish showering then drying off and dressing in the dark!

The next few days are supposed to be cooler and overcast. We still have significant climbs but are getting stronger every day. We are staying at a hostel tonight. It is very nice with only six bunk beds in each room. The price 9 Euros includes a breakfast in the morning. It is really getting chilly and I am glad there are blankets here for us to use. Again we have wi-fi and are checking our emails.

Miles 15