Local Resident Continues Journal As She Hikes Across Spain
July 5, 2010
We are continuing to follow the journals of Century resident Terri Sanders as she hikes 500 miles across Spain this summer.
As Terri hikes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, she is filing dispatches from her journal and send pictures when possible for NorthEscambia.com as she hikes the Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — to the Atlantic Ocean.
To read the complete series from day one, click here.
Make sure you join NorthEscambia.com the new few days as we catch up on Terri’s journey and complete the series.
(Scroll down to read entries from several days.)
June 23, 2010
Start: Villafranca Del Bierz
Destination: O’Cebreito
We sent our packs forward today. We have a long steep climb over several mountains. Yes, I crawled out of bed at 6:00 am to hike with Lou and Mike. There were three different options to hike today. The three of us wandered around looking for the path we wanted. We each had a different guide book, and none of us could figure out which way we were supposed to go. Finally we found it .It should have been easy to find, it was the one that went up the steepest!
Today’s hike is one of the steepest of the whole pilgrimage, but the views from the top along the Valcarce Valley kept our spirits high when our feet wanted to quit. We had a stretch of walking along the noise highway that is being resurfaced and we had to be careful of the traffic. We hiked for a couple hours before we came to someplace that we could get breakfast at.
Well, it was kind of breakfast. A couple croissants, a slice of sweet bread and a glass of orange juice. The guys added a Kit Kat as an extra energy source. The strenuous hike took us up and into Galacia. The woods were filled with chestnut trees that are harvested each season. Several times we had to check and recheck our guide books because of the lack of adequate markings. I thing we somehow managed to hike an extra hour but am not sure just where it was we lost then found the trail. We passed the first of the concrete markers that will now be all along the trail that give the distances to Santiago. Today we are at 153 kilometers. We have just one week of hiking left.
It seems hard to believe I have come this far already. We are staying at the Xunta alberque tonight. There are 80 beds laundry facilities and has been recently renovated. We were lucky to get here after all the bunk beds had been filled. We are in a large room with 12 twin beds, a big open window that provides a fabulous breeze. The room is light and airy. We are given a disposable sheet and pillow case for the beds. Dinner is not provided here so we will walk up town to find something for dinner.
Miles 18.7
June 24 2010
Start: O’Cebreito
Destination: Triacastela
Today was mostly a slightly downhill path with just some minor road walking. As we enter into the province of Galicia it seems we have left behind the adobe villages with their small populations and poverty and began seeing newer buildings and more farm land.
One thing that has been with us for the last several days is the ever present scent of cow manure. The cows walk freely up and down the road/trail. No matter what we eat or where we stop the prevailing smell is that of manure. I am extremely grateful it is not raining. I have almost begun to enjoy the smell of tobacco in the small bars when we eat our meals. Galicia shares many historical and physical similarities with other Celtic particularly those west of Ireland. Too tired to provide much employment for the large family structures, emigration has cast its blight across the region.
Today there was an old woman in the trail just outside her house selling pancakes sprinkled with a bit of sugar selling them to the pilgrims. The best I can describe them is that they were paper thin and tasteless. We each took one and John gave her some change which she flatly refused and then took less as he held out his change. She motioned it was for the four of us. The poverty here is rampant but the people do not know they live in poverty. Every turn it seems someone is selling cherries or fruit or trinkets of some kind. There is never any pressure put on us to stop and make purchases though.
Later we come into a village where on the outskirts of town there is a chestnut tree reported to be 1500 years old. A couple who look at least half that old are sitting beneath the tree, telling the history of the tree to pilgrims as we walk by .There is a sign there (even an English version) that tells about the tree. It seems like this couple have taken it upon themselves to be the keeper of the tree and to make sure no one passes by without noticing the enormous size. I am certain that some of the pilgrims have breezed by the tree as they speed their way to Santiago. I am grateful we stopped to listen to this couple even if we could not understand a word they said. It was obvious that they took great pride in this tree.
Tricastela (town of three castles) was an important stop for pilgrims coming down the mountain in ancient times. Today’s pilgrims are treated with the same respect that those of long ago were treated with. In fact at a recent alburque, we were given preference of cyclists who were seeking rooms. There are quarries here that provided the limestone used in the building of Santiago Cathedral. Medieval pilgrims would carry as much limestone as they were able to the limekilns in Casteneda.
There is a pilgrim monument in the town square recognizing this ancient tradition while acknowledging the rebirth of the Camino. Another thing that continues to amaze me is the elaborate irrigation systems that are set up in these villages. Each house seems to have its own garden and a concrete trough runs by and there is a lever that is switched to divert water down the rows of the gardens. Sometimes the water runs under the road only to cross back over to the other side later. We cannot figure out where the source of the water is but it seems that somehow everyone has access to the water.
Most of the villages have a public water fountain where drinking water is gotten from. We usually fill our bottles and dunk our heads (or in some cases have our heads pushed under the icy water). The water is usually free flowing but some fountains have a spigot, and in one case there was a big wheel that you turned to prime the water. However we were seeing more and more fountains with the sign; not potable posted. We stay in a private alburque tonight. Three bunk beds in a room. Again I am lucky enough to get a bottom bunk. This time there is both hot and cold water in the shower and I take two showers. One with my clothes on to wash them and another one after I take my hiking clothes off. There are plastic laundry hangers everywhere and you can usually find the hostels just by watching for colorful laundry in the yard. We are fortunate enough to find a wi-fi zone and are given the key once we buy a drink.
Miles 12.9
June 25 2010
Start: Triacastela
Destination: Sarria
Our foursome went to a threesome today as Mike chose to hike the shorter route and possibly go on in an effort to get an extra day in Santiago. We have hiked the last several days with two ladies from Canada.
Our breaks and sometimes meals are always lively when they are with us. We have chosen to hike the Samos route which is 6.5 kilometers longer but it follows the Oribio River most of the day. We had a thunderstorm move through last night but woke up to blue skies this morning. This path also goes by one of the oldest monasteries in Spain, the Benedictine monastery of Samos. Several times today we had to consult and re consult our guide book as there are several local walks that could get us of the Camino.
We were taking a break today just before lunch at a small cafe when all of a sudden a big Jersey cow sticks her head in the door. The farmer leading the cows up the road called to her in a harsh voice and she ambled away. We reached the city of Sarria around 2:00. The population of this city is 12,000 people and has at least 7 hostels .It has become a major starting point for pilgrims with a limited amount of time but who are anxious to receive a compostela (certificate of completion) in Santiago. They can just barely get in the required 100 kilometers needed for the certificate by starting here. From here the trail will become crowded with new comers. There was cause for celebration today as I went into a cafe bathroom that had toilet paper, soap, toilet seat, towels and running water, all in the same location, and a locking door to boot!
Miles 15.9
June 26 2010
Start: Sarria
Destination: Portomarin
Sometime in the wee hours of the morning I woke up to what sounded like gunshots. A rapid succession of quick pops. I lay there for a few moments waiting for everyone to jump up and start running around, but nothing happened. I thought maybe I had dreamed the noise. As long as I was awake I might as well get up and go to the bathroom. I headed down the hallway towards the bathroom when another round of “pops” started.
The hallway goes past the bathrooms unto a roof top patio where you hang your clothes to dry and has tables and chairs to sit at. I saw some bright flashes of light from the sky and stepped out onto the patio. For the next 45 minutes I was treated to the most spectacular fireworks display I have even seen. I could not have had a better view. After a few more minutes two other ladies joined me and we stood there and watched the display .One thing is the same in any language and that is “oooohhhh and ahhhhh”.
There was a guy that evidently was asleep on one of the loungers and he raised up and watched the show. Here we are standing in our sleep clothes watching the fireworks on a roof top in Spain, having no idea what holiday is being celebrated.
We were on the trail by seven and I got to see my first (and probably last) sunrise in Spain. It looked just like all the other sunrises I have seen and I see no reason to repeat the scenario again getting up that early. Today’s hike was split between quiet country roads and natural pathways. The prevailing smell of cow manure is still everywhere. We had a good amount of shade most of the day. It seemed like the small hamlets blended seamlessly together as we walked. The book said there were not too many places to get food, but we found that in every little hamlet there was an entrepreneur spirit and someone was selling cold drinks or snacks.
We had already walked a ways out of town when we realized that to get to any alburque we would have to walk off the route and into town. We turned around and went back into town. The first place we stopped was full so we walked all the way to the end of town to another alburque. This one is what John lovingly refers to as a “cattle car”. There are 35 bunk beds in one room. Six showers for the women and six for the men and four toilets for each. But the rate is right, 5 Euros.
We actually found a cafe that was advertising hamburgers and decided to try that for supper. The bun was fresh, the patty tasted vaguely like beef and there was the usual slice of tasteless tomato and a leaf of lettuce. Truly an American experience! Thunderclouds have gathered again and we hope the rain passes again through the night!
Miles 14.2
USDA to Help Farmers and Ranchers Expand Habitat for Migrating Birds
July 5, 2010
State Conservationist Carlos Suarez has announced that USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) will work with local farmers, ranchers, aquaculturists, non-industrial foresters, and other landowners to develop and enhance habitat for birds making their annual migration south towards the Gulf of Mexico. Under the Migratory Bird Habitat Initiative (MBHI), NRCS will partner with producers to manage portions of their land to provide additional food and habitat for migrating birds.
Suarez estimates $200,000 for the initiative in Florida.
“More than 50 million migratory birds traveling south in coming months will instinctively head toward the marshes and coastlands of the northern Gulf of Mexico; including Florida,” said Suarez. “With some marshes and shorelines in Florida already degraded and the potential for larger-scale oil impacts in the coming months, it is essential that we provide inland and coastal food, water, and cover for migratory birds before they reach the oil-impacted areas.”
The initiative encompasses portions of Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, and Texas. NRCS, in cooperation with its conservation partners, has identified priority areas that offer the greatest habitat potential for migrating bird populations. NRCS anticipates improving habitat on up to 100,000 to 150,000 acres throughout the eight states, based on expected producer participation. Based on prior experience, NRCS hopes to see millions of birds coming to rest and feed in the priority areas.
Priority areas in Florida are in Escambia, Santa Rosa, Okaloosa, Walton, Bay, Gulf, Franklin, Wakulla, Jefferson, Taylor, Dixie, Holmes, Washington, Jackson, Calhoun, Liberty, Gadsden, Leon, Madison, and Lafayette counties.
“We expect there will be great interest from our farmers and ranchers who want to do something positive to help the migrating birds – not only this fall, but next spring and in subsequent years as well,” said Suarez.
USDA will use conservation programs administered by NRCS and will work with partners, both public and private, to provide a variety of habitats to meet the needs of different species.
Emphasis will be on creating or enhancing habitat for shorebirds and waterfowl, including shallow water, mudflat, and sandflat habitats. Of special interest are agricultural lands that contain wetlands farmed under natural conditions and prior converted croplands. Natural wetlands are particularly well-suited for this initiative, as are crayfish farms and other forms of aquaculture.
USDA will deliver this initiative with the support from partners in Florida including the US Fish and Wildlife Service and the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission.
The signup for the initiative will run from June 28 to August 1. Interested producers should contact their local USDA Service Center for additional information. More information is available at: http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/news/nrcs_migratory_birds.html .
Church News: Bratt Assembly Of God Honors Veterans On The 4th
July 5, 2010
Bratt Assembly of God honored veterans and active duty military personnel associated with the church and church families Sunday, July 4th during their morning worship service.
(Reader submitted church news from Bratt Assembly of God)
Photos of the veterans and active duty military personnel were displayed on the Communion table and each veteran was called forward in recognition of their service.
Family members of deceased veterans and active duty personnel stood in honor of their family member.
The congregation sang “The Battle Hymn of the Republic”, “America” and asked God to once again bless America as Shirley Riggs lead the congregation in singing “God Bless America”. Melinda Hollingshead sang “God Bless the USA”. Jim Riggs was the master of ceremonies for the Honorarium, calling the veterans and families to stand and leading the congregation in the Pledge of Allegiance to the flag.
Bratt Assembly of God has the distinction of having a large number of veterans and active duty military personnel from different age groups and services.
Honored Sunday at Bratt Assembly of God were:
- Leslie Barnes
- Grover Barnes
- Sherman Barnes*
- Larry Godwin*
- Tommy Solomon
- Edward Beasley*
- Dudley Coleman
- Franklin Daw
- I. V. Elliot*
- Seaborn Chavers
- Jack Colbert
- Jim Flowers*
- Talton Godwin
- Gordon Hollingshead*
- James M. Kelly**
- Charles Lowery
- Alton Robbins
- Clarence Phillips*
- James Riggs
- Roger Riggs
- Blake Barnes***
- Nathaniel Cartwright***
- Johnny Lacey***
(*deceased, **killed in action, ***currently serving)
Do you have news from your church you would like to share? Email a href=”mailto:news@northescambia.com”>news@northescambia.com
Century Man Involved In Fatal Milton Crash (Updated Information)
July 4, 2010
A Century man was involved in a traffic crash that killed a motorcycle driver Saturday night in Milton.
Ryan L. Johnson, 23, of Century, was stopped at a stop sign at the intersection of Diamond Street and Highway 90 in Milton about 9:50 p.m. Johnson then pulled his 2010 Chevrolet C-1500 onto Highway 90 into side of an eastbound 1985 Harley Davidson, ejecting the motorcycle driver onto the pavement, according to the Florida Highway Patrol.
The motorcycle driver — Frank B. Merritt, 48, of Milton — was transported by ambulance to West Florida Hospital and then to Sacred Heart Hospital where he passed away Sunday morning.
Johnson and his passengers — Chelsea L. Messer, 24 of Pace; and Hugh Patroni, Jr., 24, of Pace — were not injured in the crash.
The FHP said charges are pending the outcome of a traffic homicide investigation.
Local Gas Prices Hold Steady For Holiday Travel
July 4, 2010
Travel for the Fourth of July weekend is hit the pocketbook about as hard as last year, but the overall number of travelers on the road was expected to be up.
Escambia County’s average gas price on Independence Day was $2.65 for a gallon of regular unleaded —slightly higher than $2.59 last year, but way down from $4.04 in 2008. Our local gas price average was better than the national average of $2.75.
A round trip from North Escambia to Atlanta would cost about $82.70 in fuel in a 2009 Chevrolet Impala this year. Fourth of July 2008, that trip would have cost $130.89 — almost $50 more.
In the Pensacola metro area, the cheapest gas was at the Lucky Penny on Blue Angel Parkway at $2.54 for regular unleaded.
(Previous story below)AAA projected the number of Americans traveling this Fourth of July holiday weekend will increase 17.1 percent from 2009, with approximately 34.9 million travelers taking a trip at least 50 miles away from home. Last year, 29.8 million Americans traveled during the same period. The 2010 Fourth of July holiday travel period is defined as Thursday, July 1 to Monday, July 5.
“While financial markets continue to have volatility related to the European debt crisis, the landscape of the U.S. economy is in a much different place than it was one year ago,” said Glen MacDonell, director, AAA Travel Services. “It is encouraging to see such growth this summer as Americans take to the road to visit family, friends and great vacation destinations.”
As the Deepwater Horizon oil leak in the Gulf of Mexico continues most beaches remain open and while AAA offices have reported member inquiries regarding travel to the Gulf Coast, they have not experienced widespread cancellations. Additionally, travelers visit these communities for reasons other than boating and swimming including visiting family and friends, state and national parks, golfing, shopping, dining and nightlife. Therefore, AAA is projecting an increase in travel in states in the Gulf Coast region as well.
Trips by automobile are expected to increase in popularity with 90 percent of travelers, or 31.4 million people, reaching their destination by driving. This is an increase of 17.7 percent from last Fourth of July when 26.7 million travelers went by motor vehicle. AAA expects the national average price of self-serve regular gasoline to be between $2.70-$2.80 per gallon during this Fourth of July holiday weekend. Leisure air travel also is expected to grow slightly with 1.56 million holiday flyers expected. This would be an increase of 8.2 percent from one year ago when 1.44 million flew. Trips by other modes, including rail, bus and watercraft, will be the dominant means of travel used by six percent of all travelers.
Pictured above: A gas delivery at a Century station. NorthEscambia.com file photo, click to enlarge.
Rain For Monday
July 4, 2010
Most of the area had a dry Fourth of July, but it looks like Monday will be wet across the area with an 80 percent chance of rain.
Here is your official North Escambia area forecast.
- Tonight: Scattered showers and thunderstorms, mainly after 1am. Increasing clouds, with a low around 72. East southeast wind between 5 and 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
- Monday: Showers and thunderstorms. High near 86. Southeast wind around 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%.
- Monday Night: Scattered showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 73. Southeast wind between 5 and 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 40%.
- Tuesday: Showers and thunderstorms likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 89. Southeast wind between 5 and 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 60%.
- Tuesday Night: Isolated showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 72. East southeast wind around 5 mph. Chance of precipitation is 20%.
- Wednesday: Scattered showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 92. East southeast wind between 5 and 15 mph. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
- Wednesday Night: Isolated showers and thunderstorms. Partly cloudy, with a low around 71. Southeast wind between 5 and 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 20%.
- Thursday: Scattered showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 93. East northeast wind 5 to 10 mph becoming south southeast. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
- Thursday Night: Isolated showers and thunderstorms. Partly cloudy, with a low around 72. South wind around 5 mph becoming calm. Chance of precipitation is 20%.
- Friday: Scattered showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 92. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
- Friday Night: Isolated showers and thunderstorms. Partly cloudy, with a low around 73. Chance of precipitation is 20%.
- Saturday: Scattered showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 92. Chance of precipitation is 40%.
- Saturday Night: Scattered showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 73. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
- Sunday: Scattered showers and thunderstorms. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 92. Chance of precipitation is 30%
Pelicans Beat The Saltdogs
July 4, 2010
The Pensacola Pelicans (19-28) got a huge home run from Lou Palmisano and a great pitching from Dane Devalk and the bullpen to shutout the Lincoln Saltdogs (29-18) 2-0 Saturday. The win snaps a four game losing streak for Pensacola.
Pensacola got the game’s first run in the top of the fourth inning when Lou Palmisano lined a fastball over the left field wall to give the Pels a 1-0 lead. It was Palmisano’s eighth homerun of the year.
In the top of the sixth inning, Antoin Gray flipped a dead bird single down the right field line to score Leandro from third base to give Pensacola a 2-0 advantage.
Dane Devalk (4-4) gets the win as he pitches six shutout innings and gives up no runs off only three hits on the night. Devalk struck out six batters on the evening as well. Ron Hill pitched a scoreless seventh and eighth inning while Austin Chambliss tossed a perfect ninth for his first save in a Pelican jersey.
Tim Brown (6-4) takes the tough luck loss as he pitched eight innings and gave up only two runs off nine hits while striking out nine batters on the night.
Guide To Free, Family Friendly Fourth Fireworks And Fun
July 4, 2010
There are several free, family-friendly Fourth of July events and fireworks displays today in the North Escambia area:
Pensacola
For the 21st year, area Sertoma organizations are once again coordinating and hosting the largest Fireworks display on the Gulf Coast over Pensacola Bay Sunday, July 4th at 9:00 p.m.
There will be activities throughout the day, from 11:00 a.m. until 6:30 p.m., at Seville Square to include a free children’s area with inflatables and pony rides, arts and crafts vendors, food vendors, and live entertainment on the gazebo stage beginning at 11:00 a.m.
At 7:30 p.m. there will be a FREE concert featuring Mass Kunfuzion. The festivities will culminate with the fireworks show over Pensacola Bay about 9 p.m. synchronized with music broadcast on Cat Country 98.7 FM. Details: www.PensacolaJuly4th.org.
Atmore/Poarch
The Poarch Band of Creek Indians will present a fireworks display Sunday, July 4 at 9 p.m. near the reservation’s rodeo arena. Attendees are encouraged to bring their own chairs or blankets. There will be no stage show or entertainment prior to the fireworks show.
Pensacola Beach
Fourth of July fireworks on Pensacola Beach: 9 p.m. Sunday. The fireworks show will be based off the Pensacola Beach Gulf Pier. Free waterfront concerts will take place before the fireworks from 6 to 8 p.m. at the Quietwater Shell and Gulfside Pavilion.
Atmore/Unity Baptist
There will be a July 4 Bluegrass Concert at Unity Baptist Church on Highway 31 East of Atmore at 4 p.m. on Sunday. Featuring the Bush Family from McKenzie, Alabama. For more information, contact Kenny at (251) 296-1243.
Molino Cookout July 4
Molino First Assembly of God will host a cookout on Sunday, July 4 from beginning at 11 a.m. after a 9:30 a.m. service. Everyone is welcome.
Milton
On Sunday, July 4: The Firecracker Bike Show, 10 a.m. until 1 p.m. on South Willing Street and the Freedom Car Show from 10 a.m. until noon on North Willing Street. Treasure Island Children’s Activity Area from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. at North River Riverwalk. 5:30 – 8:30 p.m. entertainment at North Gazebo. 7 p.m. Celebration Boat Parade Carpenter’s Park Boat Ramp Area. Live entertainment all day at North Willing Stage. Fireworks display at dark.
McCullough, Alabama
Molino There will be a July 4th Family Fun Day at McCullough Christian Center. Water slides for the kids and adults at 4 p.m. Hamburgers, hot dogs and more at 6 p.m. Great music at 8 p.m. and fireworks at 9 p.m. Bring a lawn chair. Free. More info: www.purposemc.com
Deputies Seek Robbery Suspects
July 4, 2010
The Escambia County Sheriff’s Office is looking for two more suspects in connection with armed robberies in the county, including perhaps robberies in the north end.
Cheraina Cristle Campbell, 19, was arrested June 29 and charged with armed robbery with a firearm and public order crimes for wearing a mask or hood during the commission of a felony in connection with a robbery that occurred June 28 at the TQ Mini Mart located at 1112 East Olive Road.
During the course of the investigation, deputies developed information that led them to issue warrants for the arrest of Thomas Kellon Sledge, 20, on charges of armed robbery. Sledge (pictured in 2009 file jail photo) allegedly robbed the TQ Mini Mart one month earlier on May 28. Deputies said Sledge is the half-brother of Campbell.
Deputies are also looking for a third suspect which they have not named. Anyone with information on the robberies or the whereabouts of Sledge is asked to call the Escambia County Sheriff’s Office at (850) 436-9620 or Crimestoppers at (850) 433-7867.
During the June 28 robbery, deputies said Campbell entered the store wearing a mask and pointing a handgun at the clerk and demanded money. Deputies said she removed her mask as she fled the store and turned to look back at the store allowing the clerk to see the her face.A K-9 unit tracked the Campbell to a nearby abandoned trailer. There was no one inside the trailer, but a photo of Campbell was found inside. The store clerk positively identified Campbell from the photo as the person who robbed the store at gunpoint.
The Escambia County Sheriff’s Office said Campbell (pictured left) may be the suspect in several other robberies in the north end of the county, but declined to release further information due to their ongoing investigation. She remains in the Escambia County Jail without bond.
The Way Of St. James: Century Resident Continues Hike
July 4, 2010
We are continuing to follow the journals of Century resident Terri Sanders as she hikes 500 miles across Spain this summer.
As Terri hikes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, she is filing dispatches from her journal and send pictures when possible for NorthEscambia.com as she hikes the Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — to the Atlantic Ocean.
To read the complete series from day one, click here.
Make sure you join NorthEscambia.com the new few days as we catch up on Terri’s journey and complete the series.
(Scroll down to read entries from three different days.)
June 19 2010
Start;Villar de Mazarife
Destination:Astorga
Breakfast was the usual, bread, jam, tea and coffee. John was feeling some better but decided not to hike today but rather catch a bus to our destination for the night. We went ahead and sent our packs ahead since we were doing 18 miles. There were a couple of nice climbs, nothing to stress about and not very much interesting to see until late in the day. We crossed one of the oldest and longest bridges in Spain, the Puente de Orbigo that dates from the 13th century.
Its arches carry you over across the Rio Orbigo via the path the passage of honor Paso honroso.It is here that a famous jousting tournament took place in the holy Year of 1434. A noble knight from Leon with the handsome name of Don Suero de Quinones was scorned by a beautiful lady. He threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he undertook to defend the bridge (and presumably his honor) against all counts. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. don Suero successfully defended the bridge for a month until the required 300 lances were broken. Together with his trusted comrades he then preceded to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love and for his honor now restored. There is nothing mentioned about the woman!
We checked into the hostel and soon found out we were in the wrong place, so back on my boots went and uphill to the correct hostel we went. We checked in to St. Javier hostel (after we rang some ladies doorbell and tried to stay with her).There are 110 beds in four rooms plus an attic. This is a lovely conversion of one of the oldest historic buildings in Astorga. I sign up for a 45 minute massage for 10 Euros. I figure I will drink water for the next week, but the massage was so worth it. I just wished I could have rolled into bed from the table. We had coupons for dinner at a 5 star restaurant for a discounted price. The food was great and very well presented. We sat around and talked until we almost missed the curfew!
Miles 18.7
June 20, 2010
Start: Astorga
Destination: Rabanal del Camino
(no journal entry for this date)
Miles 13.3
June 21, 2010
Start: Rabanal del Camino
Destination: Molinaseca
Lou and John were going to get an early start so they left at 6 this morning. I couldn’t figure the logic behind getting up early to get to the albueque early enough to take a siesta. But you have to hike your own hike. Mike and I opt for a later start. We are both night people . I fixed a nice fruit salad for my breakfast and had a couple slices of toast before heading out. We have a long day today.
Today the hike takes us through the pass of Irago to the highest point of our whole trail. The trail takes us through the mountains and along the ridge. This section is considered by many to be the prettiest part of the trail. I have to agree. It was my favorite hiking day thus far. I guess it is because the trail was so much like the Appalachian Trail except there was no shade at all today. You could walk between the rolling hills and for as far as you can see more rolling hills. The climbs were so gradual that you didn’t even know you were climbing. I took my time today and just slogged along. The smell of the woods burning under the noon sun was better than any perfume I have ever smelled. You could look around and believe that you were in a total wilderness. Just about the time you thought you were in a total wilderness, you would come around a corner and there would be a small village nestled among the hills.
Today’s selection of bars or cafes was pretty slim though and I was glad I had some snacks in my backpack. It is amazing to me how these little villages even continue to exist. There are no visible schools or industries. No stores or factories. Each village has a couple cars and plenty of rundown buildings and a couple of dogs and cats running loose through the streets. I came to a road crossing and there in a big shade tree was a swing. Just out in the middle of nowhere .There was also a pair of boots hanging on the road sign. Someone is going to be pretty upset when they realize they have lost their boots. Or maybe they just wanted to lighten their load! I got ahead of Mike at one point and took a long break.
I was not sure how he was for snacks since neither of us knew the first part of the trail was so long before coming to a village. I left him a note in the trail with half a banana and a tea cake just in case he was running low on energy. He got to the hostel just ahead of me and I found out he had taken the road instead of the trail. So somewhere out there some critter will eat well tonight! The hostel where we are tonight is a privately run one. That means it is cleaner, we are not packed in like sardines and it is very nice. There are two rooms with 4 bunks beds and one other room. Mike and I got the last two twin beds in the upper room. Yeah!!! No knocking my head on the bunk above me when I crawl in and out. There are only six beds in here anyway, so there will not be a stampede of hikers leaving at dawn in the morning. We all have decided to eat here tonight. For 8 Euros we get three courses and we don’t even have to walk but down the stairs.
Miles 16.4
June 22, 2010
Start: Molinaseca
Destination: Villafranca Del Bierzo
I wish I could say today’s hike was great. But it would not be true. Today’s hike was long, hot and for the most part boring. The trail was primarily walking along on hot asphalt through more small villages and fewer cafes. The only real pleasurable thing was going to the post office and shipping 6 pounds of stuff home that I have been carrying and have not used. Of course seeing all the wonderful vegetable gardens along the road only made me want to plant one when I get home.
Then there were the storks’ nests, this time a double condo and I could see the babies’ heads just peeking over the sides of the nest. Several times we passed under cherry trees, their fruit just beginning to ripen. We helped ourselves to a couple from trees along the roadway I hiked with Mike again today .I do not know how he hikes like he does. All he had was toast and jam for breakfast, then an apple for lunch, yet I had to struggle to keep up with him.
We are in another private hostel tonight. I miss hiking with Lou as he always points out the interesting things in each town that he gets from reading his guide book. This one is in an old building. Two floors stacked with bunk beds. The hot water for the showers is heated by solar panels. Trouble is there was no cold water to mix with the hot water. I managed to get a shower but ended up washing my hair in the sink in frigid cold water. We ate dinner here tonight. It was served family style and I sat across from the couple I met two weeks ago from Houston Texas.
I found out he had taken the road instead of the trail. So somewhere out there some critter will eat well tonight! The hostel where we are tonight is a privately run one. That means it is cleaner, we are not packed in like sardines and it is very nice. There are two rooms with 4 bunks beds and one other room. Mike and I got the last two twin beds in the upper room. Yeah!!! No knocking my head on the bunk above me when I crawl in and out. There are only six beds in here anyway, so there will not be a stampede of hikers leaving at dawn in the morning. We all have decided to eat here tonight. For 8 Euros we get three courses and we don’t even have to walk but down the stairs.
Miles 16.4