The Way Of St. James: Century Resident Continues Hike

July 4, 2010

We are continuing to follow the journals of Century resident Terri Sanders as she hikes 500 miles across Spain this summer.

As Terri hikes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, she is filing dispatches from her journal and send pictures when possible for NorthEscambia.com as she hikes the Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — to the Atlantic Ocean.

To read the complete series from day one, click here.

Make sure you join NorthEscambia.com the new few days as we catch up on Terri’s journey and complete the series.

(Scroll down to read entries from three different days.)

June 19 2010

Start;Villar de Mazarife

Destination:Astorga

Breakfast was the usual, bread, jam, tea and coffee. John was feeling some better but decided not to hike today but rather catch a bus to our destination for the night. We went ahead and sent our packs ahead since we were doing 18 miles. There were a couple of nice climbs, nothing to stress about and not very much interesting to see until late in the day. We crossed one of the oldest and longest bridges in Spain, the Puente de Orbigo that dates from the 13th century.

Its arches carry you over across the Rio Orbigo via the path the passage of honor Paso honroso.It is here that a famous jousting tournament took place in the holy Year of 1434. A noble knight from Leon with the handsome name of Don Suero de Quinones was scorned by a beautiful lady. He threw down the gauntlet to any knight who dared to pass as he undertook to defend the bridge (and presumably his honor) against all counts. Knights from all over Europe took up the challenge. don Suero successfully defended the bridge for a month until the required 300 lances were broken. Together with his trusted comrades he then preceded to Santiago to offer thanks for his freedom from the bonds of love and for his honor now restored. There is nothing mentioned about the woman!

We checked into the hostel and soon found out we were in the wrong place, so back on my boots went and uphill to the correct hostel we went. We checked in to St. Javier hostel (after we rang some ladies doorbell and tried to stay with her).There are 110 beds in four rooms plus an attic. This is a lovely conversion of one of the oldest historic buildings in Astorga. I sign up for a 45 minute massage for 10 Euros. I figure I will drink water for the next week, but the massage was so worth it. I just wished I could have rolled into bed from the table. We had coupons for dinner at a 5 star restaurant for a discounted price. The food was great and very well presented. We sat around and talked until we almost missed the curfew!

Miles 18.7

June 20, 2010

Start: Astorga

Destination: Rabanal del Camino

(no journal entry for this date)

Miles 13.3

June 21, 2010

Start: Rabanal del Camino

Destination: Molinaseca

Lou and John were going to get an early start so they left at 6 this morning. I couldn’t figure the logic behind getting up early to get to the albueque early enough to take a siesta. But you have to hike your own hike. Mike and I opt for a later start. We are both night people . I fixed a nice fruit salad for my breakfast and had a couple slices of toast before heading out. We have a long day today.

Today the hike takes us through the pass of Irago to the highest point of our whole trail. The trail takes us through the mountains and along the ridge. This section is considered by many to be the prettiest part of the trail. I have to agree. It was my favorite hiking day thus far. I guess it is because the trail was so much like the Appalachian Trail except there was no shade at all today. You could walk between the rolling hills and for as far as you can see more rolling hills. The climbs were so gradual that you didn’t even know you were climbing. I took my time today and just slogged along. The smell of the woods burning under the noon sun was better than any perfume I have ever smelled. You could look around and believe that you were in a total wilderness. Just about the time you thought you were in a total wilderness, you would come around a corner and there would be a small village nestled among the hills.

Today’s selection of bars or cafes was pretty slim though and I was glad I had some snacks in my backpack. It is amazing to me how these little villages even continue to exist. There are no visible schools or industries. No stores or factories. Each village has a couple cars and plenty of rundown buildings and a couple of dogs and cats running loose through the streets. I came to a road crossing and there in a big shade tree was a swing. Just out in the middle of nowhere .There was also a pair of boots hanging on the road sign. Someone is going to be pretty upset when they realize they have lost their boots. Or maybe they just wanted to lighten their load! I got ahead of Mike at one point and took a long break.

I was not sure how he was for snacks since neither of us knew the first part of the trail was so long before coming to a village. I left him a note in the trail with half a banana and a tea cake just in case he was running low on energy. He got to the hostel just ahead of me and I found out he had taken the road instead of the trail. So somewhere out there some critter will eat well tonight! The hostel where we are tonight is a privately run one. That means it is cleaner, we are not packed in like sardines and it is very nice. There are two rooms with 4 bunks beds and one other room. Mike and I got the last two twin beds in the upper room. Yeah!!! No knocking my head on the bunk above me when I crawl in and out. There are only six beds in here anyway, so there will not be a stampede of hikers leaving at dawn in the morning. We all have decided to eat here tonight. For 8 Euros we get three courses and we don’t even have to walk but down the stairs.

Miles 16.4

June 22, 2010

Start: Molinaseca

Destination: Villafranca Del Bierzo

I wish I could say today’s hike was great. But it would not be true. Today’s hike was long, hot and for the most part boring. The trail was primarily walking along on hot asphalt through more small villages and fewer cafes. The only real pleasurable thing was going to the post office and shipping 6 pounds of stuff home that I have been carrying and have not used. Of course seeing all the wonderful vegetable gardens along the road only made me want to plant one when I get home.

Then there were the storks’ nests, this time a double condo and I could see the babies’ heads just peeking over the sides of the nest. Several times we passed under cherry trees, their fruit just beginning to ripen. We helped ourselves to a couple from trees along the roadway I hiked with Mike again today .I do not know how he hikes like he does. All he had was toast and jam for breakfast, then an apple for lunch, yet I had to struggle to keep up with him.

We are in another private hostel tonight. I miss hiking with Lou as he always points out the interesting things in each town that he gets from reading his guide book. This one is in an old building. Two floors stacked with bunk beds. The hot water for the showers is heated by solar panels. Trouble is there was no cold water to mix with the hot water. I managed to get a shower but ended up washing my hair in the sink in frigid cold water. We ate dinner here tonight. It was served family style and I sat across from the couple I met two weeks ago from Houston Texas.

I found out he had taken the road instead of the trail. So somewhere out there some critter will eat well tonight! The hostel where we are tonight is a privately run one. That means it is cleaner, we are not packed in like sardines and it is very nice. There are two rooms with 4 bunks beds and one other room. Mike and I got the last two twin beds in the upper room. Yeah!!! No knocking my head on the bunk above me when I crawl in and out. There are only six beds in here anyway, so there will not be a stampede of hikers leaving at dawn in the morning. We all have decided to eat here tonight. For 8 Euros we get three courses and we don’t even have to walk but down the stairs.

Miles 16.4

Comments

Comments are closed.

Written by William Reynolds · Filed Under FEATURE TOP STORY, Features, News