Local Resident Continues Journal As She Hikes Across Spain

July 5, 2010

We are continuing to follow the journals of Century resident Terri Sanders as she hikes 500 miles across Spain this summer.

As Terri hikes from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, she is filing dispatches from her journal and send pictures when possible for NorthEscambia.com as she hikes the Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — to the Atlantic Ocean.

To read the complete series from day one, click here.

Make sure you join NorthEscambia.com the new few days as we catch up on Terri’s journey and complete the series.

(Scroll down to read entries from several days.)

June 23, 2010

Start: Villafranca Del Bierz

Destination: O’Cebreito

We sent our packs forward today. We have a long steep climb over several mountains. Yes, I crawled out of bed at 6:00 am to hike with Lou and Mike. There were three different options to hike today. The three of us wandered around looking for the path we wanted. We each had a different guide book, and none of us could figure out which way we were supposed to go. Finally we found it .It should have been easy to find, it was the one that went up the steepest!

Today’s hike is one of the steepest of the whole pilgrimage, but the views from the top along the Valcarce Valley kept our spirits high when our feet wanted to quit. We had a stretch of walking along the noise highway that is being resurfaced and we had to be careful of the traffic. We hiked for a couple hours before we came to someplace that we could get breakfast at.

Well, it was kind of breakfast. A couple croissants, a slice of sweet bread and a glass of orange juice. The guys added a Kit Kat as an extra energy source. The strenuous hike took us up and into Galacia. The woods were filled with chestnut trees that are harvested each season. Several times we had to check and recheck our guide books because of the lack of adequate markings. I thing we somehow managed to hike an extra hour but am not sure just where it was we lost then found the trail. We passed the first of the concrete markers that will now be all along the trail that give the distances to Santiago. Today we are at 153 kilometers. We have just one week of hiking left.

It seems hard to believe I have come this far already. We are staying at the Xunta alberque tonight. There are 80 beds laundry facilities and has been recently renovated. We were lucky to get here after all the bunk beds had been filled. We are in a large room with 12 twin beds, a big open window that provides a fabulous breeze. The room is light and airy. We are given a disposable sheet and pillow case for the beds. Dinner is not provided here so we will walk up town to find something for dinner.

Miles 18.7

June 24 2010

Start: O’Cebreito

Destination: Triacastela

Today was mostly a slightly downhill path with just some minor road walking. As we enter into the province of Galicia it seems we have left behind the adobe villages with their small populations and poverty and began seeing newer buildings and more farm land.

One thing that has been with us for the last several days is the ever present scent of cow manure. The cows walk freely up and down the road/trail. No matter what we eat or where we stop the prevailing smell is that of manure. I am extremely grateful it is not raining. I have almost begun to enjoy the smell of tobacco in the small bars when we eat our meals. Galicia shares many historical and physical similarities with other Celtic particularly those west of Ireland. Too tired to provide much employment for the large family structures, emigration has cast its blight across the region.

Today there was an old woman in the trail just outside her house selling pancakes sprinkled with a bit of sugar selling them to the pilgrims. The best I can describe them is that they were paper thin and tasteless. We each took one and John gave her some change which she flatly refused and then took less as he held out his change. She motioned it was for the four of us. The poverty here is rampant but the people do not know they live in poverty. Every turn it seems someone is selling cherries or fruit or trinkets of some kind. There is never any pressure put on us to stop and make purchases though.

Later we come into a village where on the outskirts of town there is a chestnut tree reported to be 1500 years old. A couple who look at least half that old are sitting beneath the tree, telling the history of the tree to pilgrims as we walk by .There is a sign there (even an English version) that tells about the tree. It seems like this couple have taken it upon themselves to be the keeper of the tree and to make sure no one passes by without noticing the enormous size. I am certain that some of the pilgrims have breezed by the tree as they speed their way to Santiago. I am grateful we stopped to listen to this couple even if we could not understand a word they said. It was obvious that they took great pride in this tree.

Tricastela (town of three castles) was an important stop for pilgrims coming down the mountain in ancient times. Today’s pilgrims are treated with the same respect that those of long ago were treated with. In fact at a recent alburque, we were given preference of cyclists who were seeking rooms. There are quarries here that provided the limestone used in the building of Santiago Cathedral. Medieval pilgrims would carry as much limestone as they were able to the limekilns in Casteneda.

There is a pilgrim monument in the town square recognizing this ancient tradition while acknowledging the rebirth of the Camino. Another thing that continues to amaze me is the elaborate irrigation systems that are set up in these villages. Each house seems to have its own garden and a concrete trough runs by and there is a lever that is switched to divert water down the rows of the gardens. Sometimes the water runs under the road only to cross back over to the other side later. We cannot figure out where the source of the water is but it seems that somehow everyone has access to the water.

Most of the villages have a public water fountain where drinking water is gotten from. We usually fill our bottles and dunk our heads (or in some cases have our heads pushed under the icy water). The water is usually free flowing but some fountains have a spigot, and in one case there was a big wheel that you turned to prime the water. However we were seeing more and more fountains with the sign; not potable posted. We stay in a private alburque tonight. Three bunk beds in a room. Again I am lucky enough to get a bottom bunk. This time there is both hot and cold water in the shower and I take two showers. One with my clothes on to wash them and another one after I take my hiking clothes off. There are plastic laundry hangers everywhere and you can usually find the hostels just by watching for colorful laundry in the yard. We are fortunate enough to find a wi-fi zone and are given the key once we buy a drink.

Miles 12.9

June 25 2010

Start: Triacastela

Destination: Sarria

Our foursome went to a threesome today as Mike chose to hike the shorter route and possibly go on in an effort to get an extra day in Santiago. We have hiked the last several days with two ladies from Canada.

Our breaks and sometimes meals are always lively when they are with us. We have chosen to hike the Samos route which is 6.5 kilometers longer but it follows the Oribio River most of the day. We had a thunderstorm move through last night but woke up to blue skies this morning. This path also goes by one of the oldest monasteries in Spain, the Benedictine monastery of Samos. Several times today we had to consult and re consult our guide book as there are several local walks that could get us of the Camino.

We were taking a break today just before lunch at a small cafe when all of a sudden a big Jersey cow sticks her head in the door. The farmer leading the cows up the road called to her in a harsh voice and she ambled away. We reached the city of Sarria around 2:00. The population of this city is 12,000 people and has at least 7 hostels .It has become a major starting point for pilgrims with a limited amount of time but who are anxious to receive a compostela (certificate of completion) in Santiago. They can just barely get in the required 100 kilometers needed for the certificate by starting here. From here the trail will become crowded with new comers. There was cause for celebration today as I went into a cafe bathroom that had toilet paper, soap, toilet seat, towels and running water, all in the same location, and a locking door to boot!

Miles 15.9

June 26 2010

Start: Sarria

Destination: Portomarin

Sometime in the wee hours of the morning I woke up to what sounded like gunshots. A rapid succession of quick pops. I lay there for a few moments waiting for everyone to jump up and start running around, but nothing happened. I thought maybe I had dreamed the noise. As long as I was awake I might as well get up and go to the bathroom. I headed down the hallway towards the bathroom when another round of “pops” started.

The hallway goes past the bathrooms unto a roof top patio where you hang your clothes to dry and has tables and chairs to sit at. I saw some bright flashes of light from the sky and stepped out onto the patio. For the next 45 minutes I was treated to the most spectacular fireworks display I have even seen. I could not have had a better view. After a few more minutes two other ladies joined me and we stood there and watched the display .One thing is the same in any language and that is “oooohhhh and ahhhhh”.

There was a guy that evidently was asleep on one of the loungers and he raised up and watched the show. Here we are standing in our sleep clothes watching the fireworks on a roof top in Spain, having no idea what holiday is being celebrated.

We were on the trail by seven and I got to see my first (and probably last) sunrise in Spain. It looked just like all the other sunrises I have seen and I see no reason to repeat the scenario again getting up that early. Today’s hike was split between quiet country roads and natural pathways. The prevailing smell of cow manure is still everywhere. We had a good amount of shade most of the day. It seemed like the small hamlets blended seamlessly together as we walked. The book said there were not too many places to get food, but we found that in every little hamlet there was an entrepreneur spirit and someone was selling cold drinks or snacks.

We had already walked a ways out of town when we realized that to get to any alburque we would have to walk off the route and into town. We turned around and went back into town. The first place we stopped was full so we walked all the way to the end of town to another alburque. This one is what John lovingly refers to as a “cattle car”. There are 35 bunk beds in one room. Six showers for the women and six for the men and four toilets for each. But the rate is right, 5 Euros.

We actually found a cafe that was advertising hamburgers and decided to try that for supper. The bun was fresh, the patty tasted vaguely like beef and there was the usual slice of tasteless tomato and a leaf of lettuce. Truly an American experience! Thunderclouds have gathered again and we hope the rain passes again through the night!

Miles 14.2

Comments

One Response to “Local Resident Continues Journal As She Hikes Across Spain”

  1. Mud Butt on July 8th, 2010 5:56 am

    Hey Bumkin….you know, I wondered why you weren’t using your pocket mail!! And then yesterday I found out that they had gone out of business!! I am so bummed! I leave for Ecuador and Haiti in six days and no pokcetmail!! I am glad that you ahve your laptop…..I am afraid to take mine and plug it in overseas….too much difference in the power sources. I would die if I fried a computer!! :) Oh well….I think I will have to resort to paper and pen…can you imgaine!! :)

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